Buying Advice


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When is the best time to buy? back to top

Demand for certain types of car can be seasonal too. 4x4s and estate cars are the more popular when there's ice, snow and flooded roads, so it is best to purchase these cars in the spring or summer.

Conversely it is easier to sell a sports car or convertible when the wearther is warmer.

So you have decided the time is right, and you have found a car that takes your fancy. What checks should you carry out?

Where to buy? back to top

Dealers

Buying from a dealer means you are given legal protection. Dealers are legally obliged to sell cars of 'satisfactory quality', which basically means that apart from usual wear and tear, a used vehicle must be free from defects - except ones pointed out to you and those which should have been uncovered by an inspection (but only if one has been done) - and it must be in a roadworthy condition. The dealer must have legal title to the vehicle they are selling. And finally the dealer must describe the car accurately, e.g. a car cannot be advertised as having had one careful owner if it has actually had three.

In contrast, when buying privately, as long as the car is accurately described, you have no legal comeback if there are faults with the car.

Reputable dealers should be members of a trade association, such as the Retail Motor Industry Federation or the Scottish Motor Trade Association, and be bound by its code of conduct.

Franchised outlets will usually have the pick of the best cars, and offer the most comprehensive warranties.

Manufacturers' used approved schemes can take even more risk out of buying a used car. Apart from good sales service and car reliability, you can expect a full car history check, and quite often a free warranty. You can also usually part exchange your old car.

If you are you are unhappy with the vehicle you have purchased, return it to the dealer and, if he refuses to take action, you can contact one of the following organisations for advice:

Car supermarkets

Independent car supermarkets have mushroomed in the last decade, offering high numbers of nearly-new and low-mileage used cars on massive sites. Prices tend to be attractive, but there is usually less room for haggling.

Options are limited and the stock usually consists of basic models, so if you're looking for a rare car you're unlikely to find it at a supermarket. They also rarely offer the after-sales support and warranty you'll get from a dealer.

Buying privately

This is usually the cheapest option, but it really is 'buyer beware' with a private sale.

The seller's only legal obligation is to describe the car accurately.

You need to watch out for unscrupulous sellers who may try to pretend to be a private seller to off-load sub-standard or stolen cars. But don't let this put you off. If you're sensible, and do all the right checks, a fantastic deal could be waiting for you.

Choosing the right car back to top

Clearly, there is no perfect way to choose something as complex as a new car. Everybody has a mix of rational and emotional reasons (there is nothing shameful about choosing a car partly for the way it makes you feel) and it is all about getting the right balance between the two.

This guide will not magically lead you to your perfect model, but it will help you think through the issues and reduce the chances of getting the wrong car.

Vehicle type

There are two main issues here - how big does it have to be and what body-style is most appropriate? If there are only two of you, a coupe might be fine - but then do you have to fit an ageing relative into the car every weekend? Generally speaking, for cars smaller than a Mondeo, most people now choose a hatchback or an estate - small saloons are out of favour, which will reduce their trade-in value. Conversely, for anything bigger than a Mondeo, hatchbacks are completely out of fashion.

When thinking about vehicle size, think about the most room you will need regularly. If a seven seater MPV is needed once a year, it might be cheaper to buy a smaller car and then hire the MPV when you need it.

As a checklist, here are the common bodystyles:

  • Hatchback: the standard configuration for small cars.
  • Estate: currently growing slightly in popularity - seen increasingly as "lifestyle" vehicles for active people
  • Saloon: the classic bodystyle, but only popular for large saloons (like a Mondeo or Passat) and executive models
  • Coupe: Not as common as they were in the days of the Toyota Celica or Ford Capri
  • Convertible: The new generation of coupe-cabrio with folding metal roofs have, to some extent, taken over from coupes
  • MPV: Nowadays, they come in a huge array of sizes, from the little Citroen C3 Picasso to the traditional seven seater Ford Galaxy. Not all are seven seaters, so do check first.
  • Off Road: Falling back after years of rapid growth. Nowadays, they have become smaller and more economical (e.g. Ford Kuga, VW Tiguan).
Fuel Type

Nowadays the market for new cars is split almost 50:50 between petrol and diesel. Generally speaking, the extra cost of diesel is not worth it for small cars, given that small petrol engines are now so economical. Conversely, off-roaders and big MPVs are almost unsaleable with a petrol engine. The crossover point is the small family car (Ford Focus/VW Golf-sized models). Smaller than that petrol is preferable, larger than that most people choose diesel. However, if you are buying second-hand and you do not drive many miles, you may be able to find a big petrol model for massively less money than an equivalent diesel.

Your Priorities

Take a look at our road tests and decide what categories are important to you. We break a car down by

  • Styling
  • Handling
  • Comfort
  • Quality and Reliability
  • Performance
  • Roominess
  • Running costs
  • Value for Money
  • Stereo & Sat Nav
  • Environment

Independent car supermarkets have mushroomed in the last decade, offering high numbers of nearly-new and low-mileage used cars on massive sites. Prices tend to be attractive, but there is usually less room for haggling.

As regards equipment, these are the key items. Remember, unless the car is more than a few years old, it will almost certainly have power steering, ABS, engine immobiliser and a driver airbag as standard. If you are paying more than £2,000, you should expect all those items, unless you are buying a classic car.

  • Air conditioning/climate control
  • Alloy wheels
  • Remote central locking
  • Audio (CD or MP3)
  • Sat Nav
  • Leather seats
  • Electric seats
  • Passenger airbag(s)

In fact, on a high-specification car under two years old, you may have the opposite problem - some people just cannot get on with electronic parking brakes and other modern gadgets. Do ensure that you understand all the features before you drive away in your new car - more than one buyer has been stranded by the mysteries of keyless engine start.

Budgeting

Always remember that paying for the car (even on finance) is the easy bit. After that, there is insurance, road tax (check the CO2-related charge for post 2001 models), fuel and the biggest issue of all, depreciation. If you are buying second-hand, there is often a trade off between fuel economy and depreciation - you might get a thirstier car for much less money, but calculate the extra fuel cost (and the likely further depreciation) of any gas-guzzler.

Advice on buying a car privately back to top

Check out the seller

If buying privately, it's wise to do your research on the seller as well as the vehicle.

  • Get a landline telephone number but you should be aware that it could be for a public telephone box or might transfer to another phone. Call the number to check.
  • Always meet a private seller at their home address. Check that the car is registered on the V5C Registration Certificate (the “log book”) to that address and look for signs that they reside there.
  • If you feel unhappy with the other party, trust your instincts and walk away. Do not be tempted by that elusive bargain.
Check the paperwork

Examine all the legal documents, plus any available details of the car's service history. The V5C Registration Certificate is the official document that records the name and address of the current and previous keepers, registration, chassis and engine number, make, year, model and colour.

  • Make sure that V5C has not been tampered with and that the document is watermarked. Compare the document with another V5C or look at the V5C for your own vehicle. See the DVLA website for more information (www.dvla.gov.uk ).
  • Check that the vehicle identification number (VIN) matches that on the documents, and has not been tampered with. The VIN number is in at least three places on a vehicle. The 'visible' VIN plate is under the windscreen, on the nearside (left) of the car, under where the tax disc should be. The 'VIN plate/sticker' will normally be somewhere under the bonnet. There will be a number stamped in the main body that is located differently for each type of vehicle. Be very wary if there are any signs that etching or numbers have been tampered with or removed.
  • Look for a full service history, complete with dated rubber stamps, in the service book (but see the warning, below)
  • If the services were carried out at a franchise dealership, all the better
  • If the engine is reconditioned, ask for evidence, such as a bill or, preferably, a warranty

The MOT certificate, which must accompany all cars over three years old, is the evidence of the car's basic condition on the day of the test. Also check old MOT certificates (if the car is more than four years old) to see if there is a consistent story on the mileage. The general rule of thumb is: the more paperwork the better. A stamped service book is good, but actual receipts for servicing are better. It is not unknown for service books to be faked, so check that the stamps don't all look like they were created on the same day. It is far harder to forge receipts for everything from brake pads to a new alternator.

Checking the car back to top

The body
  • Does the model badge match the specification on the registration document?
  • Are the body panels consistent?
  • Is there any evidence of repaired accident damage?
  • Do the colour and texture of the paintwork match all over?
  • Check under the bonnet and in the boot for signs of haphazard welding, untidy seams or other evidence of a bodged accident repair or, even worse, a cut-and-shut (two stolen or crashed cars being welded together to form a single, extremely dangerous vehicle)
  • Check the front end for excessive stone chips in the paintwork
  • Check for rust and paint bubbles, particularly on the sills, wheel arches, seams, door bottoms and suspension mountings
The mechanics

Even the non-technically minded can test the overall condition of the mechanical parts of the car. Don't be embarrassed to poke around.

  • Check for oil leaks around the main engine block
  • Look for damaged hoses and frayed drive belts. They may not be expensive to fix, but the condition of the engine can reveal the degree of care and attention the car has had
  • Before the car is warmed up, look at the colour of the water in the radiator. The greeny tinge of anti-freeze is fine, but oily traces or a low water level could signal leaks or, even worse, a blown cylinder head gasket.
  • Check the amount of oil on the dipstick on a level surface when the engine is warmed up. Is the oil smooth and clean, or has it got bits in it? A foamy look or coloured scum could signal trouble
  • Check all tyres for tread depth and damage. Do all of the tyres, including the spare, have 1.6mm of tread, the legal minimum?
  • Look underneath to see if the exhaust is rusted or contains holes
  • Check that all the locks are working and that all rubber seals are intact
  • Make sure the seat belts show no sign of damage or wear. Badly worn seats, carpets and pedals can suggest high mileages more accurately than a milometer, especially if there is no service history
  • Do the windows work?
  • Wipers, milometer and heater can all be easily assessed, so give them a good testing. When looking at the milometer, look for evidence of tampering: does the speedometer look like it has been removed and replaced and do all the numbers line up correctly?
  • Check lights, dashboard warning lights and other electrical equipment, as electric window and central locking repairs can be expensive
  • If there is a stereo fitted, make sure it works and is included in the sale

There's a lot to remember - so why not take a checklist with you? If any of the above are not in order then you have grounds to query the car, consider other options or negotiate for a discount to put things right. These are all bargaining points that could save you money.

Finally, and totally unscientifically, remember the "Dog and its Owner" rule. Just as bad dogs and bad owners tend to go together, so do bad sellers and bad cars. If you don't trust the seller, don't buy the car.

Professional inspection

Do consider having the vehicle professionally examined before you buy, either through a motoring association, private company or garage. They will examine the vehicle and be able to give you more safety with your transaction.

Car history checks back to top

hpi"1 in 3 cars has a hidden history" An alarming statement, but sadly true. That is why we have teamed up with HPi to give you the reassurance you need.

Inadvertently buying a car that is then found to have been stolen is likely to result in you losing all rights to ownership, as well as the money you originally paid.

We check key registers at HPi for every private car placed on the site for sale. This should prevent a car that is stolen from being advertised on our site.

Clocking

Clocking does still occur unfortunately. No surprise when you learn that a car's value increases on average by £30 for every 1,000 miles knocked off.

Clocking usually involves removing the whole assembly from the dash and changing the milometer i.e. winding the clock back. Check that the digits align and examine the screws, and if you are in doubt, walk away.

Outstanding finance

A history check may reveal that the car has outstanding finance and that it's legally still owned by the finance company. But this is not necessarily bad news - you can still come to an agreement with the finance company, and end up owning the car. But don't rely on the seller's word that he or she will settle the outstanding amount.

Buying a Car Warranty back to top

When you buy a used car, you hope that you will have many trouble-free miles of motoring. However cars are complicated pieces of machinery and there are potentially many things that can go wrong with your vehicle, sometimes leaving you with a hefty bill to pay.

A car warranty is a form of insurance policy. If the car breaks down due to mechanical or electrical failure or suffers failure of parts covered by the policy, the warranty will cover the costs of replacement parts and labour.

That means that you can continue to drive your car secure in the knowledge that any bills will be paid for by the insurance company.

A good warranty will cover major mechanical components: engine, fuel and ignition systems, cooling system, electrical system, gearbox, clutch, transmission system, steering, suspension and brakes.

Most warranties include a form of breakdown recovery due to a covered part failing. Always check the small print - find out exactly what is covered and what is excluded, and what circumstances invalidate the policy. Make sure there is a cooling off period to change your mind.

All warranties are different, so take care to find a policy that works for you. Most warranties are only valid if an approved dealer has serviced the car to the manufacturer's schedule, and you usually have to service the car within 1,000 miles or 30 days of the scheduled service.

The Association of British Insurers lays down guidelines on how companies sell warranties. Whoever you buy your warranty from, make sure they abide to the ABI code.

Visit the ABI at www.abi.org.uk.

Paying back to top

There are different ways you can pay for a vehicle - cash, cheque, banker's draft or bank transfer. An immediate bank transfer can be made using the CHAPS system for a nominal fee, (£20-£30). Consider meeting the buyer at your bank and completing the transaction there. CHAPS payments are irrevocable. Choose the method that works for you but be aware of the potential issues. It can be dangerous carrying a large amount of cash when you're going to meet a stranger so use your common sense and always have someone with you. Cheques and banker's drafts can be fraudulent or counterfeit so the seller may not be prepared to accept these. NEVER pay using a money transfer company such as Western Union or Moneygram - these exist for transferring money between people who know each other. Be careful when using ESCROW or Shipping web sites as many are bogus and set up by fraudsters. If you do use ESCROW, make sure it's verified by the FSA and is based in the UK. See the Metropolitan Police Fraud Alert web pages about money transfer, criminal cashback fraud and bogus ESCROW sites.

Buyer beware back to top

Buying a car is probably the most expensive commitment you could make second to a house purchase. Added to this it is unlikely that you will have the security of legal advice, solicitors, agents etc. to protect the transaction and moreover, your money. The process of buying or selling a vehicle is usually straightforward but both buyers and sellers can leave themselves open to becoming the victim of fraud or other crimes. Be careful not to let the excitement of buying or selling a vehicle compromise your safety or your money. And remember, if it looks too good to be true, it usually is.

We support the Vehicle Safe Trading Advisory Group (VSTAG), a new industry forum created to combat vehicle related fraud.

For further information visit the VSTAG website: www.vstag.co.uk

Other useful websites

Glossary back to top

  • A/Bag or airbag - Driver's Air bag
  • ABS - Anti-lock brakes
  • AC or a/c or Aircon - Air Conditioning
  • Adj Steer - Adjustable Steering Column
  • Auto - Automatic transmission
  • BHP - Brake Horsepower
  • CC - cubic centimetres (cylinder capacity)
  • C/C or Climate - Climate control
  • C/L - Central Locking
  • Cruise - Cruise control
  • DOHC - Double overhead camshaft (i.e. twin-cam engine)
  • E/M or E/mirrors - Electric Mirrors
  • EW or e/w - Electric Windows
  • E/Seats - Electric seats
  • FSH - Full Service History
  • H/Seats - Heated seats
  • Immob - Immobiliser
  • LHD - Left Hand Drive
  • Lthr or leather - Leather seats
  • LWB - Long Wheel Base
  • ONO - Or Near Offer
  • OVNO - Or Very Near Offer
  • MET - Metallic paint
  • MPG - Miles per gallon
  • MPH - Miles per hour
  • MPV - Multi-pupose vehicle (e.g. people carrier)
  • P/Bags or p/airbag - Passenger airbags
  • POA - Price on application
  • PX or Part Ex - Part exchange
  • Park dist cont - Parking distance control
  • PAS - Power Assisted Steering
  • R/C (or r/c/l) - Remote Central Locking
  • RWD - Rear Wheel Drive
  • S/Bags or s/airbag - Side airbags
  • Sat Nav - Satellite Navigation System
  • S/R - Sunroof
  • SWB - Short wheel base
  • Traction - Traction control

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